We spike to alleviate compaction and introduce more air into the soil.
Ok, our first web search term question. I’ll try to follow this format for all questions, i.e. the question will be the title of the post, there will be a concise, one sentence answer in block quotes for those in a hurry and then we’ll look a bit more in-depth for those who want more detail.
Comments of course will be welcome as always, so feel free to ask questions, or throw in your contribution.
OK, so the first one is a common one:
First of all let’s explain what the term “spike” means.
Spiking is a generic term used to describe Read more
Yes I’ve come over all Latin today; and no, it’s not because I can’t believe my old jeep sailed through its MOT yet again last week!
Even the garage owner was amazed that he couldn’t find anything wrong with it.
He sent me off with “I’ll get you next year!”
No, the Latin was inspired by a photo I received from a regular reader who sent it in to illustrate a problem he had on his green with red-thread.
However, the reason for this post is not to discuss Latin, or Red-Thread for that matter.
The clump of grass in the centre of the photo is annual meadow grass, or Poa annua to use its botanic name.
It’s not that we greenkeepers are more cultured than the average man in the street, more to do with college lecturers who insisted that we learned to identify and remember the botanic names for hundreds of grasses, trees, shrubs and weeds.
Incidentally this came in useful when I was leaving the MOT station, as I casually threw in a final, killer comment of “you need to get your Tarixicum officianale (dandelion) sprayed before it takes over the yard!”
Back to the clump of meadow grass.
This is actually a weed ( an unwanted plant in its current state and location) as we are really trying to create and maintain a sward of finer fescue and bent grasses for the best bowling surfaces.
Unfortunately, almost (probably all) all of the bowling greens in the UK will be infested with this grass.
Even newly built greens constructed on sterile rootzone material will show signs of this weed within 2 years as its seed blows in from the surrounding area.
From the picture you can see it at its worst aesthetically, which it usually is at this time of year. Right through May and June it will show up as unsightly clumps of lime green grass which contrasts vividly with the other darker green species.
Also at this time it will be seeding like mad.
The visual problem recedes as the summer progresses, but it does actually produce seed all year round.
Scarifying, verti-cutting and close mowing are of minimal value in removing the seed heads and to some extent can actually help annual meadow grass to thrive in the summer.
This is because it has a very low and prostrate growth habit which keeps the majority of the plant including seed heads below the cutting blades.
Excessive scarification and verti-cutting can actually weaken the finer fescue grass leaving the annual meadow grass with a stronger chance of survival.
It does have one Achilles heel and that is water.
Poa annua is a very shallow rooting grass and the Performance Greens program is designed to allow greenkeepers to keep the surface of their greens a little drier than most, thus putting the weed grass under pressure.
This is achieved by managing irrigation to ensure that the green is watered deeply, but irregularly which also has the effect of encouraging deeper rooting of the finer, desirable grasses.
The program also calls for a more sensible approach to cutting heights, whilst using other methods to achieve green speed. This allows the finer grasses to put down even deeper roots and also strengthens plants against drought and wear.
Poa annua is however likely to be with us ad infinitum as it is a very adaptable grass.
This adaptability is actually a good thing in the end as over time the grass becomes finer and blends in more readily with the finer grasses.
It is perfectly feasible still, however, to have a green that is predominantly fine and to keep Poa annua under control over the long term by following a sensible program that encourages the development of a healthy living soil which in turn will support a strong and dense sward of finer grass.
“Traditional” Mowing Schedules are damaging a lot of clubs
Last week’s post on green-speed has raised a few questions, a lot of them along the lines of
“How can we afford to cut the green 7 days a week?”
In the introduction to my book Performance Bowling Greens I speak about the danger of traditions.
Traditions are funny things, because they don’t actually seem to need to be very old, or for that matter very sensible for them to take hold; they only need a bit of support from a few people and Bingo! They are “new” traditions.
One of the quirkiest? Cutting the green on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, usually early in the morning. Why has this become a tradition at many clubs?
Well it probably boils down to cost mainly and perhaps convenience and possibly a little bit of misunderstanding of the growth pattern of greens.
Following this cutting plan those playing on Monday evening, Tuesday, Wednesday evening, Thursday, Friday evening, Saturday and Sunday are not seeing or playing the green at anything near its best!
That leaves a lot of potentially dissatisfied customers!
So in answer to the question at the beginning, another question:
How can you afford not to?
However, in Bowling Club Turnaround terms remember dissatisfaction can actually be a good thing as it gives you a huge opportunity to move things to a better state and make an overall positive gain from an otherwise negative situation.
A lot of the web searches that lead people to this site are based around a desire to find a catch all, fool proof, guaranteed to work, easy to implement Bowls Green Maintenance Schedule.
Quite a lot of people actually search using the term: “Cheat Sheet for Bowling Green Maintenance”, and although the assumption would be that this is going to be impossible to find, it’s actually more credible a desire than you might imagine.
Perceived wisdom in the greenkeeping world would insist that the answer to this quest should begin with the phrase “well every green is different, so there is no such thing as a one stop shop for bowling green improvement”. Does that sound like a salesman speaking to you? Yes? Well that’s because it usually is!
However, this isn’t necessarily true.
The fact is that a very large percentage of the people who use this site, or who I meet or talk to about bowling greens, express almost identical problems with their greens and the reason for that is two-fold:
There are actually very few things that can go wrong with greens; the majority of “problems” merely arise as symptoms of one or two basic underlying issues, which in turn, are related to bad maintenance practices.
Almost every sub-standard or un-predictable bowling green surface is a result of clubs following the “industry standard” of greenkeeping which is dangerously flawed.
eBook details: Bowling Club Survival and Turnaround.
The book is split into 7 sections as follows
How to stem the flow of cash out of your club starting today and how to prime a pump that will see more cash flowing into your club effortlessly.
The remarkable 10 Minute MBA or how to build a business model that works for your club.
An amazingly simple but powerful formula that will ensure your club stands head and shoulders above all of your competition.
In a revolutionary take on the Marketing of your rejuvenated club we turn the commonly accepted view and perceived “wisdom” about Marketing firmly on its head! In this remarkable section we demonstrate “paint by numbers” instructions for achieving all of the members you want with a vastly reduced Marketing budget.
Step 5 provides what can only be described as ABC style instructions and guidance to turn your club into a smooth, efficient and profitable machine.
In step 6 you’ll discover a remarkable system for adding 20-30% of your current income straight onto your bottom line profit!…by dealing with waste in your club.
“Step 7 is essentially a method for bringing all of the previous steps together into an automatic club improvement system. Even after you’ve applied the first 6 steps and have a thriving, profitable club; this step pretty much guarantees that even a very efficient club will improve bottom line performance by at least 10% every 3 months”.
