Natural greenkeeping is about rhythm, not routine. And the best greenkeepers are those who tune into the biology of the surface—not just the calendar on the wall.

Natural greenkeeping is about rhythm, not routine. And the best greenkeepers are those who tune into the biology of the surface—not just the calendar on the wall.
High-sand bowling green rootzones are often biologically sterile. Biostimulants help to rebuild microbial life, improve root mass and nutrient cycling and reduce dependency on chemical fertilisers
While many assume surface-casting worms are shallow dwellers, the reality is more complex. Lumbricus terrestris, for example, is a deep-burrowing anecic worm—it constructs vertical burrows up to 2 metres deep but returns to the surface to feed on organic debris, which it pulls into its burrow.
Nitrogen is essential to turfgrass performance—it drives growth, colour, and density. But too much or too little, applied at the wrong time or in the wrong form, can do more harm than good. Spikes of growth followed by periods of stress are all too common with traditional nitrogen sources, especially on fine turf where consistency is king.
Transitioning your green from Poa annua to bent/fescue is not only critical to achieving a Performance Bowling Green, but is actually a realistic goal. The spongy, soft turf associated with annual meadow grass is less than ideal for bowls. Common wisdom says that this can't be done without major disruption and that even after it is achieved it wont last. This article explains in detail how to undertake the transition of your green from Poa annua to bent/fescue turf and dispels the myths about stressing Poa. This is the way to change your green permanently and without fuss. It will also save your club money on maintenance, so what's not to like?