As standard soil analysis offerings are generally obsessed with chemistry, a very low pH is often interpreted as a chemical imbalance, which, of course, it is. The question of why those acid cations are dominant on the soil colloid, remains unaddressed in most cases. Instead it seems that many advisers are jumping straight to the temporary, artificial correction advice to add lime, and as we have seen, for fine turf, that can be dangerous advice.
I genuinely believe that it's possible to come up with a formula to fix your bowling green, regardless of it's current condition. This is due to one over-riding fact that I've discovered after looking at literally hundreds of greens. They are all at some stage of what I've termed the Circle of Decline. The critical factor in making this possible is simple. You must know what you are dealing with and there is no way to find that out without carrying out some hand dirtying investigative work. So let's get dirty!
When fungicides are used repeatedly, they don't just suppress disease temporarily; they erode the very microbial networks that would naturally keep disease in check. This explains why many greens find themselves caught in a cycle of recurring outbreaks and escalating chemical inputs.
Across the UK this summer, bowling greens are being baked in the intense summer heat. Weeks of hot, dry weather have left surfaces bare, cracked, and rock-hard. For many clubs, the underlying soil has crossed into a more serious condition — hydrophobicity — where the soil physically repels water, a phenomenon known as Localised Dry Patch.
If that’s where your green is today, you’ve got a problem.
You can simply can't wait until your usual mid-September renovation
For an average bowling club, this seasonal "renovation pack" can easily run to £2,000 or more. Fungicides, insecticides, sand, fertiliser, labour, equipment hire, it all adds up. Yet few stop to ask: Is this spend necessary, or is it just habitual?
