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Bowls Green Spiking

Slit tining, solid tining, hollow tining, verti-draining. All of these terms seem to be interchangeable with the word “Spiking” so it can be confusing for the new greenkeeper or green convenor to know what the best approach is at any given time to do the best for their green.

All of these terms relate to the aeration or introduction of air in the green. They all do this by making holes of one kind or another.

When I refer to spiking I usually mean “slit tining” and this is still the best thing you can do to your green through the winter months to relieve the compaction that has built up over the playing season and to keep the green surface open to allow drainage of surface water.

You can get much more detail on the aims of aeration and the techniques used here.

What does top dressing a bowls green do?

In spite of the common misconception that it does a lot of good and that it is an essential part of annual bowling green maintenance, in broad terms it does very little of good towards levelling the surface, drains club’s of much needed cash and actually causes untold damage to the green eco-system over time.

There are many more articles detailing the reasons for this conclusion here.

Slit tining bowls greens

Last week I had a guy tell me that slit tining is old fashioned and worthless in bowling green maintenance.

In its place he offered deep solid tining (usually referred to as verti-draining). This involves taking a tractor onto the bowling green and bursting vertical holes into the green at close spacing to a depth of 12 inches.

My answer to this was two-fold:

  1. Electric light, television, penicillin, the internal combustion engine and potatoes are old fashioned too.
  2. Most bowling greens were built with only 6-8 inches of topsoil.

Because something is “old fashioned” doesn’t mean it’s of no use. In fact if something “old fashioned” is still around it’s usually because it’s still very useful.

Deep (6-8”) slit tining your bowling green continually (twice a month isn’t too much) throughout the winter months is the single most effective way to safely relieve compaction.

Your green becomes increasingly compacted as the season goes on due to the downward pressure of feet and machinery. The winter is the only time you can work on this effectively.

Forcefully penetrating the layers below the rootzone by means of a deep vertical solid tiner is damaging to the underlying construction and drainage principles of the green and even one operation can cause damage that might take years to become fully apparent. This usually results in the incumbent greenkeeper being fired for something he had nothing to do with because no one can believe that something that was done to the green years ago could cause problems that didn’t surface until so much later. In a reflective moment I wrote a little story about this a while ago. You can read it here.

The potential for damage is explained in detail in Performance Bowling Greens and Slit tining along with other essential winter maintenance is discussed in the Autumn/Winter Maintenance Guide.

Autumn and winter bowls green maintenance

We are getting an increasing number of enquiries about the correct process for Autumn bowling green maintenance at the moment.

Here are my top 10 tips for autumn maintenance:

  1. DO NOT TOPDRESS
  2. Remove as much thatch as possible.
  3. Create air space in the top 100mm of the green
  4. Relieve Compaction
  5. Treat LDP by applying wetting agent
  6. Renovate heads to ensure recovery for next year
  7. Improve CEC on overly sandy soils by introducing zeolite
  8. Boost potassium levels
  9. If over-seeding, also give some Phosphorous
  10. Draw up a program of work to carry on right through the winter months. Don’t “put your green to bed”