John’s new eBook Bowling Club Membership – retention and growth is now available for purchase here.
In this ground-breaking ebook John focusses solely on membership issues, detailing a comprehensive plan for growing your club’s membership and retaining a healthy membership level for the long term.
In this eBook John looks more closely at the subject that he first raised in Bowling Club Survival and Turnaround and this book can be regarded as a partner volume to the previous eBook, as it digs deeper into the vital area of getting people through the door of your club and keeping them coming back for more, over the long term.
Right now, this is the definitive guide on re-building your club’s membership base and building a successful club for the future.
Inside your copy of Bowling Club Membership – retention and growth, you’ll discover:
- How to build member loyalty and how to install systems to perpetuate this.
- How to re-think the role your club plays in the local community and a new way to think about what constitutes a “member”.
- A remarkable chapter detailing a powerful method of finding new members for your club that uses tools you have at your fingertips (and it isn’t the internet or anything computerised!)
- An amazingly simple but powerful formula that will ensure your club stands head and shoulders above all of your competition when it comes to excellent service.
- How to build an automatic club improvement system.
So as you can see, Bowling Club Membership – retention and growth, is set to be a very important resource for Bowling Clubs everywhere, but what we’ve told you so far really is just scratching the surface. The book is also packed with actual tools you can use to achieve the remarkable changes previously outlined.
Someone searched by this term on the web and was directed to the site.
Now I normally pick out the most popular search terms to try to answer the underlying question, but this was a single and very different search term and I thought it was very interesting.
The title tells the full story; someone is of the opinion that the greenkeeping advice they received caused the opposite result from the one they expected.
This is probably due to one of two common problems; both of which I tease out and put a bit of detail on in the opening section of my eBook Performance Bowling Greens, a practical guide:
Problem Number 1. A lot of the advice that is available is non-committal, playing it safe or just wrong; for example a lot of “advisers” still peddle the same old advice which usually includes some of the most damaging practices you can inflict on a bowling green like top-dressing with high sand content top-dressing.
Problem Number 2. Bowling clubs have a high degree of impatience when it comes to waiting for improvements to materialise on their green. Even when following the correct regime there is usually a period of renovation required to get things moving in the right direction and this is why many greens never improve to any great degree; clubs don’t stick to a plan.
Now this is understandable to a degree because most club members quite rightly want a good green…now; they are paying their membership now, so now is when thy want results. This leads to desperation mode, another factor that creeps into clubs from time to time and again detailed in Performance Bowling Greens.
This is so common that many of you who have read the eBook have written to say that they recognised their own club in the examples I gave.
So when someone says that the advice they have received has caused a disaster its usually due to one of these problems.
Rob emailed with an interesting question about using the old fashioned forking method of aeration during periods when the green is excessively wet, like now probably in many parts. Here is Rob’s full question and my reply to him earlier. If anybody has views on this subject please feel free to share:
Do you know anything about the traditional ‘raise forking’ or ‘graip’ aeration methods that were used? What kind of forks were used? (straight? curved? how thick were the prongs?) and how deep did the go down ? etc.
I am interested in such traditional techniques and yet cannot find out any information about it?
After the snow the greens are absolutely soaked through and I wondered if trying this traditional technique might dry them out with minimum disturbance?
Well, although I have used the method (under duress) in the past, I didn’t have all of the answers I would have liked for Rob:
Hi Rob and Happy New Year
I am not aware of any special equipment for this, but I have done it.
Usually this was with a normal garden fork; the technique was to work backwards and push the fork in as far as possible at intervals equivalent to the space between the tines on the fork so as to create a square hole pattern.
After pushing the fork in to full depth (6 to 8 inches) you wiggled it about and heaved it backwards slightly before removing and moving on to the next.
Back-breaking and very labour intensive mind you.
Before going to extreme measures it might be worth checking that the ground isn’t still frozen at some point below as this might be causing the slow down in drainage.
During the winter I recommend using a deep slit tiner as often as possible, which automates this procedure to some extent and has a very good effect on compaction related problems like this.
You can find articles on this here:
Last week I shared some links to resources including the most suitable machinery for this work; you can see that article here:
If any reader has some light to shed on this subject then I would be very interested to hear it.