A lot of us have experienced a very dry spring. In his article on the Performance Greenkeeping tasks for May, John takes account of the dry spell and offers some timely advice on aeration, irrigation, Localised Dry Patch as well as the correct way to tackle the more routine jobs of mowing and plant nutrition.
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How to Water a Bowls Green
During dry and hot weather the need to water your green properly can't be over emphasised. Although it can be tempting to let the green burn to achieve speed, this can turn to disaster and cause the green to fail later in the season.
The Great Top-Dressing Debate
At its most basic, the answer is that excessive use of sand on bowling greens causes the under lying soil to become inert; lacking life or the complex web of interactions that go to make healthy, high performance turf. The natural balance of the soil/turf ecosystem is upset and the green will never be capable of consistent high performance for as long as the folly of top dressing is allowed to continue.
50 Years of Sand
From the very beginnings of the game of bowls, most clubs bowled on a green constructed largely of local top soil, built, prepared and seeded by the club members, perhaps with the help of a local gardener or farmer. Maintenance was largely mowing, turning the rinks on flat greens, keeping the surface clear of debris and worm casts and an occasional roll before a big match. In the autumn, a squad of members would descend on the green with forks to aerate or spike the green, before putting it to bed for the winter with a final cut and perhaps a bag of fertiliser.
Mycorrhizal fungi and turf health, better bowling greens rely on us understanding this.
Mycorrhizal fungi and turf health go hand in hand. The symbiotic relationships that exist between our turf grass plants and soil fungi are critical to producing a high performance, perennial grass dominated sward. Here we look at the benefits of mycorrhizal relationships in turf and the techniques greenkeepers can employ to encourage them.
PotSi (10 Litre)
PotSi offers the following benefits:
- Stronger plant growth, reducing susceptibility to pests and disease
- Thicker cell walls increase the grass plant's natural defence mechanisms
- Improved leaf erectness which helps with the control of Annual Meadowgrass and improves green speed and smoothness without lowering the height of cut.
- Helps control and reduce iron (Fe) and manganese (Mn) toxicity, common in sandy rootzones where high salt mineral fertilisers have been deployed in the past.
- Reduces susceptibility to attack from fungal pathogens like Fusarium and Dollar Spot
- Reduces susceptibility to attack from root herbivores and sucking insects like Leatherjackets and Chafers
- Increases resistance to drought, heat and cold stress
Sweat the small stuff, for a high performance bowling green this year
If your green maintenance budget was cut in half this year what would you do?
Most clubs when faced with cuts to the greenkeeping budget, will try at all costs to keep the most important work in the plan. Unfortunately, important frequently gets confused with dramatic, which means that the big expense of top-dressing in the spring and autumn usually stays in the plan and I wish it didn’t for all the reasons I’ve explained over many articles.
Meantime, the work deemed less important and which of course is less dramatic is often sidelined or dropped as a result of a fear of what might go wrong if the big, sexy stuff is missed. These big jobs “must be doing a lot of good”, or so the thinking goes, because they’re so expensive and disruptive?
Finding the Sweet Spot in Bowling Green Performance
The Sweet Spot in greenkeeping is when your green's Physical, Chemical and Biological components come into line to deliver results you couldn't previously have imagined were possible. Hitting that sweet spot is a lot simpler than you might imagine too, as focus on the soil's biology will naturally correct some of the worst Chemical problems and compensate for some of the worst Physical ones. There should be no problem "selling" this idea to your club either as first of all it saves money and secondly it massively improves green performance and consistency.
How to painlessly transform greens from Poa annua to bent/fescue
Transitioning your green from Poa annua to bent/fescue is not only critical to achieving a Performance Bowling Green, but is actually a realistic goal. The spongy, soft turf associated with annual meadow grass is less than ideal for bowls. Common wisdom says that this can't be done without major disruption and that even after it is achieved it wont last. This article explains in detail how to undertake the transition of your green from Poa annua to bent/fescue turf and dispels the myths about stressing Poa. This is the way to change your green permanently and without fuss. It will also save your club money on maintenance, so what's not to like?
Thatch – Public Enemy Number 1
In the green renovation phase we are mainly concerned with the physical and quick reduction of the existing thatch layer, A process that will create vastly improved soil conditions and will encourage the increase of soil microbial activity.